Early morning on May has our trip started. Starting in Kiev we took a road towards Volgograd. The motorcycles were so much eager to start the journey after a long winter break. We were very excited few hundreds kilometer after we left metropolitan area. To make a ring of the former Soviet Union countries We had got to the first country border where it took us very long to get out of there. It was deep evening when we got to Russia. That was the first mismatch with the schedule we had fixed before. Therefore, we had to stop at the nearest motel. We continued our trip next morning. And the first problem met us: Kostya (short of Konstantin) dropped his R1200GS and broke the throttle sensor down. It was obvious one of us had to take an evacuator. Thanks to Robert’s experience and skills, we got rid of the problem. Moreover he was able to drive up to 5000 km more. Andrey Pavlovskiy joined us when we got to Volgograd. And we immediately continued our trip since we wanted to overnight in Astrahan. The most significant was to get to Uzbekistan in time. We have arranged the schedule and some people were supposed to meet us in there. At the Russian-Kazakh border we met one guy and girl from England. They also were travelling on their Suzuki across the Pamir Mountains but from the other side. Right in the first city of Kazakhstan Atyrau we had a chance to know a famous eastern hospitality. A young man we had met led us to the inexpensive hotel, waited till we drop all of our stuff off, and then showed us to a good restaurant to taste a traditional meal. We had to get up very early as we wanted to see the steppes and deserts. Plan for that day was the next: in Beyneu we needed to change the motor tires and cross the border from Kazakhstan to Karakalpakstan, and overnight in Nukus.

The representatives of Asia Travel were supposed to meet us there. Another circumstance had been waiting for us in Beyneu – there was no electricity since morning, and nobody knew when it would be given again. After long waiting we realized that we can not wait until the electricity comes again, and so we continued our adventures. The next 80 km till we got to Uzbekistan was tough. So we have got a clue of what is going to happen later. We arrived to the border at the dusk. 180 km were ahead till we would get to the nearest community. So that we found a small café-like place. It was a real mess. We had to sleep on the floor. However that is like a heaven for the motorcyclists when you are right in the middle of the desert with no civilization around. Next day we met with our Ust-Urt guide in Kungrad. We drove 100 km more till we got to Muynak. The city has been in the mouth of Syr Darya River, and Aral Sea. Five biggest canneries have been here till 1973, and provided the whole Soviet Army during the World War Two with food. A hundred thousands people had been living here before. To compare, only 18 000 are here now. And the Aral Sea dwindled, and now its 150 km away of Muynak town. Rusty remains of the ships are thrown away all around the desert, which by the way was a sea not long ago. Sand and hot air are the only left here. We have got to Ust-Urt plateau, 30km more and the desert started. Gas rigs could be seen in a distance. And that was it. We kept moving. Interesting things we have seen were canyons which were Aral Sea’s coastlines before. We went up to the top of the plateau. And the most gorgeous view was waiting us there. Dozens of kilometers, desert, and a wide landscape were seen. 120 km until we got the Aral Sea. And here it is! We left our vehicles, and carried on walking. That was impossible to drive there because of the silt. One could wallow down. We took a stop, and had an open-air lunch. It was much easier to get down to the Sea rather than going up. And a low quality gas made it even worse. We got back to Nukus. And directly fell asleep as a dead irate.

A hole in the ground filled by gas is burning for 40 years long. People name it as “gates to a hell”.

We have seen one of the ancient city-museum called Khiva next day. Indeed it looked exactly like on the pictures we had seen before coming. Awesome. Finally we were able to change the tires of the vehicles in here.

And then we went towards Turkmenistan. It took forever Turkmen customers to set up with our documents. This country is rich for gas and oil. So it was intentionally that we did not get any gas in order to have a high quality of it in here. And we have filled our motorcycles.

Another 300 km were before we were to Darvaza city. Gas extracting and production rig was here in the past. And one day the ground under it fell down like it had disappeared. A giant yawner emerged at the place. The diameter of the yawner was 60m and the depth was 20 m. It took place in 1971. The geologists checked it, and came to a conclusion there was a hole in the ground filled by gas. So to prevent the toxic stream from leaking the scientists came with the decision to burn the gas up. It was estimated that all gas would be buried in a couple of days. But it has been burning for 40 years long!

It was almost evening when we arrived to Darvaza.  But it was not a circumstance to observe the town and general scenery which also was pretty.

Ashkhabad, the capital city of Turkmenistan amazed us with its architecture. We had got an impression as if all the buildings in the city were covered with a white marble. A high monument of Turkmenistan’s president is settled up at the main square (downtown) of the city. The monument is made of gold. Several kilometers away is the biggest mosque in the world. It locates on the territory of more than a hectare, and so it can fit more than 10 000 people. Majestic minarets (A tall slender tower attached to a mosque, having one or more projecting balconies from which a muezzin summons the people to prayer), an italian white marble covered building of the mosque – all makes is painted with gold. And with really expensive carpets inside they look just fascinating.

Ending with Ashkhabad sightseeing up we left for Mary, another city that is about 350km to the south. We wanted to see the ancient city of Merv, its better to say its remains. Its best period was reached in the 12^th century when the king Sandjar made it a capital city of Seljukid’s kingdom. At that time the city was even bigger than Constantinople and Baghdad.

Bukhara was the next stop. And Turkmen customers took $40 per vehicle to get out of the country. And finally we are back in Uzbekistan. It was a really beautiful weather in Bukhara in May. We stayed at the nice hotel in the city center of Bukhara. And then we went to a quiet restaurant. The building where the restaurant is now was a seminary where young generation got a religious and state education.

Next day was all devoted to the city sightseeing. Streets were full of silk made stuff, asian jewelers and so on. Craftsmen and blacksmiths were offering their hand made things. One may have a sense of Asia even in the air because s/he is at the Great Silk Road.

In Bukhara we had one visit to the orphanage. We had brought a TV set and DVD player with tons of cartoons so that we could make them feel happier. Kids prepared a special program for us with a hand made panel. It was extremely touchable.

One more day and we were going to Samarkand, the heart of Tamerlane’s empire. An old city square surrounded by madrassah and minarets. It looks very colorful. It is certain we have visited the place where Tamerlan, his sons and grandsons are buried. It is a holy place for Muslims. It was prohibited to enter this place for everybody but president before now.

And it is impossible to come to Uzbekistan and left without tasting a delicious traditional meal called plov.

Pamir Highway and Ak-Altay passage were the pick points of our trip. We had to stop in Dushnabe on the way to there. We have got pretty much used to a little bribery which happens in developing country borders. Mountains came after steppes. We were too much excited. The higher we climbed the lower temperature were becoming, and it started raining. We have got to a 3200m peak. And lots of  little rivers, complete off-road, mud gauge , and graders. One of the SUV’s got a little technical problem so we had to stop in Dashtak.

In the morning we have cleaned up our vehicle of mud, and moved towards Horog. It is a town where Pamir Highway starts.

The wavy road was leading up to the mountains. There was a river on the right side of which was Afghanistan. A mountain landscape was so much gorgeous! And remains of tanks were reminding about the recent fighting. Every 10-15 km we saw a patrol of 3 state gunners.

Another passage we crossed was 4220 m high. It is getting hard to breathe, and you might have a little dizziness. Human’s blood is getting clot. Headache is approaching you. Taking an aspirin and drinking more water is highly advised. Moreover the snowfalls were approaching. And we were scared we could not see the road. We could hardly go further.

We saw a bulldozer on the curb which was to clean the road up. And it came out to be that the dozer got broken down and it itself was in need of help. So we gave a hand of help, and took the dozer out to the road. You should have seen how much the workers were surprised.

We got refueled in Murgab town that is 3650m above sea level, scooping gas from a local drum. Still we haven’t got a clue of how and why people live there. Neither plants nor good weather condition but only mountains are there.

Next day we had some problems with our motorcycles because of the discharged air but all went ok after a little. So we reached our highest peak – Ak-Baytal passage at the 4655m. In spite of the fact there were no roads sour cycles worked that all out. Some of the peaks of 5700-6000m with a white covered on the top were extremely beautiful! And the Chinese border was stretching along the way for hundreds of kilometers.

The Karakul Lake could be seen in a far. Its borders were drawn with salt scurf. At those vastnesses you can feel how tiny and huge a man is at the same time.

The road full of mud and snow was sharply going down when Kyrgyz border ended up. Studded tires were very much useful in this case.

A day after we saw some sites in Osh city, visited the local bazaar (market place), and eventually left for Tashkent in the afternoon.

The next point after Uzbekistan was Kazakhstan where we had to drive 2000km in order to get to Aktobe and then get to the Russian territory. We had been surprised while crossing Uzbek-Kazakh border. The temporary import of our vehicles at the departure from Tadjikistan was not cancelled.  But there was nothing impossible for our team.

And so we got to Chimkent with its Kazakh steppes. The sky was covered with dark clouds, and it was pouring somewhere. At first we thought whether we should stay in here and overnight. But after we decided to keep moving in to Kyzyk Orda direction. Moreover the road was good enough, and there was asphalt.

We had to drive 800km of desert from Aral to Aktobe. And after Aral the highway was finishing up, and different sorts of directions starting.

Hundreds kilometers on the same stuff such as hot sun, sand and camels were all around. The road had become so much comfortable when 250km were left till Aktobe. We could not believe we had got to the asphalt. But that was a bit early to feel happy because when we passed by Aktyubink the same awful roads started. So we passed 100km more.

Exhausted with Kazakh sun, sleepy because of the monotone landscape we had got the Russian border. And the intuition was telling “motherland is close”.

We got to Saratov in the morning we had really got an impression of the closeness of the relative places. It took us 1 hour to get out of the city since traffic, police made it hard. In the midnight we were at the Ukrainian-Russian border. And the Harkov-Kiev highway seemed to be so much familiar even despite the night. Everyone had an absolute desire to get home as soon as possible.

And so on May 25, we had got to Kiev, the capital city of Ukraine. Each of us saw everybody off, and left for own home. So was our wonderful trip!

Yurt camp location.

Placement at the camp “Aydar” . The camp is located 8km away of the western side of the Lake Aydarkul’. It was reconstructed in 2009. The camp has 11 yurts that are decorated by hand-made carpets and sherdaks of local masters. The colored patterns and chandeliers are making a special holiday like comfortable atmosphere inside of the yurts. The camp is provided with the restrooms (toilettes), shower room, and another room where the lunch and dinner are served. Electricity is available on the campus.

A dinner on the camp. Sunset the highest point of the barkhan with a wine. There is a magic tree which you can tie a ribbon and make a wish. The evening can be spared at the fireplace with a melodic and quiet music of a local bard. The skies are very pure in this area so that the stars, Milky Way can be clearly seen. You can watch into a telescope as well. We can offer a national dish “beshbarmak” or any other which the tourists would prefer, 3 sorts of a salad, fruits and eastern sweeties. Also ice cream at the summer time.

Camel riding and trekking There are camel riding and trekking available on the camp lasting from 2 up to 10 days. Moreover, ATV and Jeep driving. If you would like fishing or hunting we provide you with all necessary equipment. There is 1-2 hour trip to the Lake Aydarkul where the tourists can observe the flora and fauna. Even though that is a desert many interesting things are to watch (25 species of herbs and animals).

A picnic and swimming on the Lake In camp you will have a picnic. Fried fish or shish-kebab, fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, fruits and mineral water are served at the Lake Aydarkul. Here tourists may relax, swim in a little bit salty water of Aydarkul, and get some tan lying at the beautiful coasts.

A lunch in a private house A lunch is provided in a private house in Nurata. It is served with “pilov” – a traditional meal of Uzbekistan, 3 sorts of a salad, fruits and eastern sweeties.

Location

Chimgan area is located in the territory of Ugam-Chatkal National Park and is part of Bostanlyk district (Tashkent region). Chimgan village is located 12 km from Charvak reservoir, one of the largest artificial water reservoirs in Uzbekistan. The area is intersected by Chimgan and Beldersay rivers.

Chimgan village is located in the mountain massive of dominant Greater Chimgan peak (3,309 m) of Chatkal range at an altitude of 1,620 m. The nearest villages are Yusufhona/Galvasay (24 km; 1,000 inhabitants), Yubileyniy (8 km; 750 inhabitants).

Chimgan village was settled 400-500 years ago, probably, by settlers from southern Central Asia. Some experts see Chinese words in the name “Chimgan” but others translate it as “sod” or “pasture abundant in water, green valley”.

Climate

Climatic conditions in Chimgan are determined by the mountainous part of the Ugam-Chatkal National Nature Park. The climate is continental; there are seasonal and daily fluctuations. During the day it is warm, the evenings are cool. Spring comes in April in the mid-mountains; in the high mountains there is snow and cold until midsummer. The highest temperature is in June-July and early-August. Mean daily temperature of the warmest month (July) fluctuates from 20 to 35?C. Average annual precipitation is 650 mm. Heavy snowfall is in winter, which allows ski tourism development. Snow cover lasts for 4-5 months. The frost period lasts about 130 days.

Tourism attractions

The wide variety of Chimgan and its surroundings allows the development of landscape tourism. Mountains (Small and Greater Chimgan Peaks), plains, Gulkama and Novotasha waterfalls attract a lot of tourists from the capital of Uzbekistan and abroad. There are fishing opportunities in Chimgan, Beldersay, Nurekata, Gulkamsay, and Ishakkupriksay rivers. The Black Waterfall (40 m) at the lower part of Greater Chimgan Peak is a natural point of interest. Ugam, Pskem, Karjantau can be observed from the mountains.

Another attraction is the geological features of Chimgan, such as the red color of hills containing iron oxide of the neogenic period. There are lava remains as well. Furthermore there is an interesting flora: juniper forests, flowers including tulips, eremuruses (desert-candles), bushes and alpine meadows. Argali, bears, marmots, eagles, partridges, owls, nightingales and other fauna species inhabit in this area as well.

The Chimgan Mountains are attractive for adventure tourism lovers. Sport and tourist infrastructure was constructed here in 1960s, such as skiing tracks, hotels, life-saving stations, paved roads and other facilities. Moreover, it became possible to develop ecological and ethnographical routes, as there are all necessary resources available.
Tourism in Chimgan is characterized by the following data. Peak period: up to 80-85% of the visits are in summertime, including late spring and early autumn. Winter has 15-20% of the visits, that are mostly related to winter sports and celebrating New Year;

In the village there are horses for hire. There are other services including transportation, food and accommodation services oriented to serve large-scale tourist enterprises (Chimgan Oromgohi, tourist centre). There are people that know foreign languages, such as English and German language teachers. The local population speaks Russian well. In Chimgan area picnics can be organized and local cooks can be invited for cooking.

Cultural attractions

Ancient houses still remain in Chimgan. The population is traditional and keeps customs. Tailor work and other craftsmanship are developed. Historical periods are reflected in legends and songs. Folklore reflects national features of nomads. The synthesis of Kazakh and Kyrgyz songs and music performance is noticeable.

Gastronomy is also mostly traditional, particularly use of local mountain plants. Dishes are based on milk products (koumiss), eggs and meat. Almost in every family there are production traditions that are handed from one generation to the next, for example in metal and wood processing, embroidery, food cooking, food preservation and construction.

The village keeps traditions of Moslem behavior and morality. Many Moslem holidays are celebrated: Kurban-Hayit, Ramadan-Hayit and others. There are traditions came from zoroastrizm, particularly spring holiday Navruz (21 March). This day is celebrated with special course sumalak cooking (wheat acrospires broth), and also sweets and pilaw (a dish cooked from rice). Dances and songs are performed, sport games and competitions among youth (needlework, crafts, cookery) are conducted.

People

The total population of Chimgan village is 2,230 (February 2005).

1,023 people are Kazakh (46%), 946 – Kyrgyz (42%), 132 – Tajik (6%), 85 -Uzbek (4%), 35 – Russian (2%), and less than 1% is representatives of other ethnic groups. Chimgan is thus mainly a Kazakh-Kyrgyz village with a corresponding way of living and mentality.

The population is largely depending on natural resources of the village surroundings, but some businesses have been established that provide some employment. Surrounding lands are important for producing fruits and vegetables, melons and gourds, and fodder crop are cultivated as well. Families get an income mostly from cattle breeding (50%); crop farming (26%); retail trade (8%); or tourist services (16%).

Having cattle is of high importance for families (both livelihood and capital source). 385 families have cows, 122 – horses, 300 – sheep and goats, 320 -poultry. 30 families do not have anything. These numbers of domestic animals on the one hand emphasizes the agrarian orientation of the village, and on the other hand causes extensive pressure on the natural resources.

The local economy is based on three sectors:
- Natural resource-based: production for own use (plant cultivation, vegetables and fruits particularly), cattle breeding for milk (cows), as well as horse breeding
and beekeeping;
- Service sector-based: work in summer recreation children camps, sanatoria, rest houses, tourist centers Chimgan Oromgohi and Beldersay Oromgohi;
- Commerce-based: food, milk products sale (koumiss, kurt, curdled milk), flowers and herbs, honey.
Local self-government
In Chimgan there is a local self-government – a village community committee, which consists of mahalla committees. It is a combination of a village community, elders’ authority, and representation of the governmental authority at the local level. It has an element of democracy as the head of mahalla committee is elected; decisions are taken collectively, after considering interests of the village inhabitants.

As legend says the name of Marghilan is linked with the invasion of Alexander the Great to Central Asia in the 4th c. BC. Alexander the Great had passed the way from Khojand to Uzgen and back. During that campaign he visited twice the future Marghilan. Local people having known about the Alexander’s visit to the town got prepared to that meeting. Due to the fact that Romans like chicken they met Alexander with bread and chicken. After that treating Alexander asked about this meal and was answered: “Murginon” which meant “Chicken and bread”. From this memorable day the town was named as “Marghilan”.

Since old days Marghilan was famous by its wonderful silk. Via the Great Silk Road traders brought Marghilanian silk to Baghdad, Egypt and Greece. One of the historians of the 10th c. wrote: “the Marghilanian silk costs all Bukhara’s land.

The population of Marghilan is 165000 people. The territory is about 50 sq. km. Marghilan sets 15 km to the north from Ferghana at an altitude 475 m above sea level. Marghilan is the third city in Ferghana region after Ferghana and Kokand. Marghilan is the silk center of Uzbekistan. There are two silk mills. The silk factory “Khan-Atlas” (“Silk for Kings”) is one of the largest enterprises in the CIS. Every day the factory manufactures more than 25 km of national fabric. The process of production is completely mechanized. More than one thousand employees work at this factory. The souvenir factory “Yodgorlik” is the only in Central Asia where original handmade methods of silk production are reminded. There are 270 employees working at that factory and 70% out of them are young women. This mill is famous for its activities outside Uzbekistan. Silk fabric that is manufactured here became one of the best at the international market. Annually over 2000 foreign tourists have their opportunities to be familiarized with the process of “Khan-Atlas” production.

Initially, the center of anti-Arabic rebellion, later part of Chagatai Ulus under Genghis khan’s son, the city came to fame under Timur, who was born and raised not for from today’s city center. Shakhrisabz’s glory further blossomed when the city became a part of Bukhara Sheibanid Empire in the XVI century. Both court and bourgeoisie demanded the best in fabrics for clothing and interior design and Shakhrisabz’s masters were famed for their embroidery.

Ak-Saray palace
Timur’s captured Khoresm masters conceived the first Timurid monumental architectural building, Ak-Saray, the white palace, white symbolizing the nobleman’s color. Today the flanks of the entrance arc to what has been described by Clavijo in all its XIV century splendor, still stand tall.
According to legend, Abdullah Khan, the Bukhara Emir, on an official visit, approached the city. Ak Saray appeared on the horizon. The white palace stood like a gigantic mirage and the Emir, spurring on his best horse, was fooled into thinking he would reach the entrance gate in no time. Having thoroughly exhausted his horse but still not having arrived at his destination, the Emir, enraged, ordered Ak-Saray to be destroyed. Nevertheless, even in ruins the palace is still awe inspiring with its two pylons of 98 meters, formerly connected by a 22 meter arc, the widest in Central Asia.

Fortification wall
Parts of the fortification wall are still preserved today, right behind Ak-Saray. The magnitude of Ak-Saray is best understood after consulting the map in the museum, showing its original closed off palace compound holding “mahallas”, city section allocated the clergy, to different crafts masters and the ruling family.

Kok Gumbaz Mosque, XIV
Ulugbeg himself designed and oversaw the construction of this blue domed mosque, erected in honor of his father Shakhruh. With its 46 meters, the cupola is even higher than that of the Bibi-Khanum mosque in Samarkand.

Shamshiddin Kulol Mausoleum, XIVc.
A small hall with high cupola ceiling holds thew beautiful white marble gravestone. Originally from a potter’s family, Shamshiddin Kulol later became the mentor of Bakhauddin Nakshbandi and the spiritual teacher of emir Taragai, Timur’s father as well as of Timur himself. On the far side of the carved stone pilgrims pore water into an indentation, which, when drunk, will cure men of snoring and women of barrenness.

Gumbazy-Selidan tomb, XV
Under the beauty painted cupola next door lay remains of Timur’s father and other close members of his family. The original door to the mausoleum is displayed in the museum.

Caravanserai Kobu, XV
Today the original wood carved doors are opened to invite you into the small cells occupied by craftsmen of the Hunarmand association. This is where national handicraft and a good map of the area are available.

Dorus-Siadat Complex, XIV
It was in 1376 that Timur’s beloved son Jahangir passed away at the age of 22 after a horse riding accident. It is said that the ruler never smiled again. A mausoleum was built at his grave site and its beautiful cupola ceiling, offset by whitewashed walls; underline the sanctity of the place. Timur ultimately decided to make Dorus-Siadat a vast family burial site. The foundation, if nothing else, of its monumental constructions, combining tombs, commemoration hall and mosque, rooms for clerics and worshipers are still intact and give an impression of the magnitude of the site.

Timur burial vault
Timur had his burial arrangements carefully planned. He himself chose the granite slab, the location of his mausoleum, deep in the ground. For political reasons, however, Timur was laid to rest in Samarkand. When Galina Pugachenkova discovered the site 50 years ago, the remains of a man and woman were found inside the casket.

Friday mosque
If it all possible, Shakhrisabz should be visited on a Friday. To witness the wise old men of the area with their white beards, white turbans and beautiful striped coats approaching the Juma Mosque, is a beautifully privileged moment, when fantasy meets reality.

Malik Adjar mosque
One of the few painted aivan (Uzbek: place for sitting and relaxing) wood ceilings, carried by stalactite wood pillars. According to legend, Malik Adjar was a wealthy man who generously helped those in need. The length of his legs was of such fame, that when mounting a camel, his knees would still touch the ground.

Chorsu covered marked
The ancient major crossroads bazaar, having parallels only in Samarkand and Bukhara, will serve as an extension of the museum, exhibiting local crafts.

Medival public bath
Of many bath houses only this one remains. Accessible for men only, it comprises hot and cool bathing rooms, a massage vault and a barber’s room.

To Kyzyk Kum through the mysterious settlements of Nurata Mountains.

The names of some villages in Nurata come out of the old legends. People who live here all know that Alexander the Great, Arab conquerors, Genghis Khan and many others spent their time here during the winter. Tamerlane’s and Bukhara emir’s hunting zones had been in this area long time before. Here is one of the legends. Genghis Kahn decided to go towards Samarkand after taking Khorezm under the empire’s control. And he sent the best cavalry corps with Djebe and Subutay on the top to explore and find out about the city. But there was a place between two mountain passes nearby Samarkand that is named “Shaytan Jiga” (“Devil’s Helmet”). And Tamerlane’s army faced a defeat right at the place. In fact this place has seen many defeats such as of Alexander the Great, Persian, Chinese and Genghis Khan’s armies. This place does not even look nice nowadays. The land is mostly covered with stones, so no plants grow there. Just time to time you can catch a turf. However lots of little water fountains come out in the spring. Local citizens graze its goats and sheep here. Still this place is used to be called “wicked” though people do not remember where this name came from. Huge granite boulders, scattered on the valley, indeed, resemble the fantastic figures of demons. Someone finds them as a faces of ancient gods, and the features of animals - bears, tigers, giant frogs, lizard, and bird of prey. And one of the "sculptures" recalls the severed head of a giant person. Towering cliffs, similar to castles, labyrinths and frozen in stone fancy stage cluster in some places. Sometimes it seems that the soldiers are indeed hardened in battle. One legend says that once it made sacrifices to their gods, some pagan tribes. Another says that occurred heroes struggled in the mountains, and the heavens tremble, so that it fell down to the ground. The mountains have broken down and transformed into weird fragments. Perhaps those are petrified creatures for real? What if somebody will be able to wake the ancient forces up and revive them? After the defeat Djebe and Subutay decided to run with the remaining soldiers and arrived to the area of the Lake Fazilman. After two days of walking they had got here and began to set up their Gera (yurt), waiting for the leader. Genghis Khan rushed to the location of Djebe and Subutay when he had heard about the defeat. Bishop has decided to take the residents in his hands in order to take revenge of Samarkand, and invited them to perform the dirtiest work in his army for exchange for their lives. But one of the local commanders recognized Genghis Khan and run during the night away. The next morning the Lord was informed that the local commander had disappeared. It was said that he was taken by demons or he just fell into the lake. A few days later it was discovered that he was hiding in one of the villages at the foothills of the mountains. Angry Genghis Khan gave an order saying the commander to be found and burned on the spot .... Djebe went to accomplish the order with a few other soldiers. They went to Uhum village but could not find the commander. Despite, they got back with 10 jars of gold. And that is why this village became to be named Ohum which is composed of two words: “On- ten” and “Hum- jar”. After they went up to Hayat village… Our tour guides can tell the continuation of this amazing legend.

Option 1. “Uhum-Hayat-Mojrumsay-Sentop-Kyzylkum” route

Our tour will introduce you to a unique flora and fauna, lifestyle, traditions, values of local mountain villages which are at the western part of Djizzak state, around the Lake Aydarkul. On the north side of Nuratau which are not that high is Nurata reserve. Fuit and nut forests, mountain complexes, and a unique population of mountain sheep Severtzov are protected by arrays.The top point of the Nurata mountains is Hayat-Bashi (2169m). In Nurata reserve walnuts, wild fruit, mulberry, poplar, willow, maple, elm, pistachio, almond, cotoneaster, wild rose, honeysuckle, hawthorn, prangos, ferule, zizifora, eremurus, tulips, astragalus, cereals cousin, luke, ungernia and everlasting are grown. The reserve is mixed of the mountains fauna and deserts. Here you can see the fox, wolf, sheep Severtsov, wild boar, porcupine, hare tolai, stone marten, weasel, coney, a lot of reptiles and about 150 sorts of birds.

At these country side areas villages are compact and built very tightly. Streets are not that straight and have number of impasses with basically walls and fences – doovals. Houses are mostly adobe (at the mountain area is appeared by settlements of the stones), with a flat roofs, and terrace (ayvan) could be seen time to time. As in eastern country the house is spited into two parts: for men and women. Unknown people are not allowed in the women’s part. Moreover there is a special room for the guests called mehmonhona. The floor is covered with felts, cotton and woolen carpets. And then all around the place you can see long but tight sort of soft blankets for the sitting purposes named kurpacha, and a tablecloth in the middle named dastarhan. Walls are usually decorated with embroidery (Suzanne) carpets.

Best time to visit: from the Mid March - Mid June; and Mid September - Mid November
Complexity: upper medium
Total length of trekking part: 34km

Day 1. Tashkent – Uhum – Hayat (You can add Samarkand and Bukhara up on your route)

Leaving for Uhum. Lunch at Bakhrom’s place in there. Little trek towards Hayat village. And viewing rock paintings (petroglyhps), seeing flora and fauna of the Nurata mountain region. This remote corner of the country was intensively used by a man since ancient times. The old hunting petroglyhps and remnants of ancient settlements were found on this territory, and it serves as a proof of human usage. The oldest archaeological monuments in the region belong to the Neolithic. The Climate is continental, a bit dry and warm. The fact of Kyzyl Kum’s closeness makes a great influence of the region’s climate.

You overnight at the traditional for this place house. You wil be introduced to a local culture and lifestyle. A dinner will be provided.

Day 2. Hayat – Mojrumsay –Sentop.

Trek to Mojrumsay. Visit to the thousand year old pie tree (juniper) in the valley of Majerumsay.
The diameter of the tree is more than 24m, and a circumference of the central branch of 12 m. The branches of the tree are so heavy that they are almost lying on the ground. On each of the side branches several people can fit in, and of a 5 - 6 people in the hollow. The age of the tree is more than 1500 years old. According to the saying of the local people it is believed that the tree was planted by soldiers of Alexander the Great. Then you have a lunch at the shade of the huge juniper. Leaving for Sentop. Dinner and overnight at the local guesthouse.

Day 3. Sentop – Kyzyl Kum Desert

Leaving for Kyzyl Kum area around the Lake Aydarkul after having a breakfast. A stop is at the lake with swimming and fishing available. Yurt camp is coming after. A short walk across the desert (on he foots or camels). Dinner with Akin’s songs is in the evening. Overnight in yurts.

Day 4. Kyzyl Kum - Tashkent

Breakfast. Leaving for Tashkent.

Price:

Price includes:

- transportation during the whole trip

- living in a local guesthouse in Hayat, yurts in Kyzyl Kum

- a local tour guide

- a translator guide

- all trip food (except last day lunch and dinner in Tashkent)

Price does not include:

- first aid kit

- insurance

- personal expenses

- service tips

Option 2. “Hayat - Lake Fazilman – Sentop – Kyzyl Kum desert” route

Best time to visit: from the Mid March - Mid June; and Mid September - Mid November
Complexity: medium
Total length of trekking part: 16km

Day 1. Tashkent – Uhum – Hayat

Leaving Tashkent for Uhum. Lunch at Bakhrom’s place in there. Little trek towards Hayat village. And viewing rock paintings (petroglyhps), seeing flora and fauna of the Nurata mountain region. This remote corner of the country was intensively used by a man since ancient times. The old hunting petroglyhps and remnants of ancient settlements were found on this territory, and it serves as a proof of human usage. The oldest archaeological monuments in the region belong to the Neolithic. The Climate is continental, a bit dry and warm. The fact of Kyzyl Kum’s closeness makes a great influence of the region’s climate.

You overnight at the traditional for this place house. You wil be introduced to a local culture and lifestyle. A dinner will be provided.

Day 2. Hayat – Yamonkechi passage – Lake Fazilman

Leaving the village in the early morning and walk towards Yamonkechi passage (1500m). Visiting Severcov sheep’s Valier on the way. As far as you go you can observe the entire panorama of the Hayat, the gorge of Hayatbashi, biological reservoir, the top of the mountain ridge Nurata and the Lake Aydarkul in distance. You can take the best pictures of Nurata mountains and Kyzyl Kum desert from the passage. Going down of the extensive slopes of the ridge Nurata (it looks like alpine meadows in the spring). Camping on a large meadow of 1600 m. Overnight. (6-7 walking)

Day 3. Lake Fazilman – Sentop – Kyzyl Kum desert

Trek to the lake (1645m) after having a breakfast. Getting around the Fazilmankul. At the request we can make a simple undulating ascent to the top of Kichik Fazilman (1840 m). Going to the Sentyabsay river through Marziya passage (1560km; 3-4 hrs). Lunch at Shodiboy’splace.

Leaving for Kyzyl Kum area around the Lake Aydarkul after having a breakfast. Yurt camp is coming after. A short walk across the desert (on feet or camels). Dinner with Akin’s songs is in the evening. Overnight in yurts.

Day 4. Kyzyl Kum – Tashkent

Breakfast. Leaving for Tashkent.

Price:

Price includes:

- transportation during the whole trip

- living in a local guesthouse in Hayat, yurts in Kyzyl Kum

- living in tents of two people each

- a local tour guide

- cooker

- rent of gear (tents, dining stuff)

- all trip food (except last day lunch and dinner in Tashkent)

Price does not include:

- a translator guide

- first aid kit

- insurance

- personal expenses

- service tips

Playing karnay and surnay instruments has аn ancient history and this art is a national musical property of the Uzbek people. Basically till these days men have been engaged in this art and it has been descending from generation to generation and from master to apprentice. On can hear sounds of karnay and surnay in wedding parties and holiday ceremonies.

Karnays, used widely throughout Uzbekistan, are brass, unbent natural horns without valves, two meters or more in length. Sound is produced by pursing the lips through the mouthpiece. Karnays are played from the standing position while lifting and often moving the instrument in an upward direction. The diameter at the bell of the instrument is 220 millimeters. The sound is very powerful and can be heard from a great distance. Historically, straight and curved karnays were used by the military, with the army having louder sounding versions. Unbent (i.e. straight) karnays are assembled from three separate pieces, from the narrow mouthpiece to the bell. Most bells are decorated with] ornamental figures. Karnays are an essential element of musical ensembles for weddings and large national festivals. Their scale is diatonic because they are natural horns.

This instrument was made by master instrument -maker F. Bortnik in 1968, and is 21.2 centimeters long.

The surnay is one of the most complex of Uzbek wind instruments because of its structure. In shape and sound—a wooden conical tube with a wide bell—it is similar to the oboe. It is used throughout Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, and the Caucasus—where it is known as zurna— and similar instruments are common throughout the Far East. Like karnays, surnays are an essential element of music ensembles for weddings, holidays and other celebrations. They are the solo instrument in such ensembles, which usually consist of karnays, doiras, and nagoras. Surnays are diatonic instruments with a range of l>l,5 octaves. They have six holes on the top, played with the first three fingers of each hand, and one hole underneath played with the thumb of the left hand, which is used for changing the register. The top of the instrument is fitted with a double -reed to create sound. Surnays' timbre 1 unique and quite different from other woodwind instruments.

This instrument was made by master instrument -maker K. Azimov in 1954. It is 460 millimeters long (without the reed), its bell is 78 millimeters wide and it weighs 500 grams.

Among all the Uzbek music instruments a special place is taken by karnay, which is a mouthpiece brass-wind instrument with many original and specific features. Karnay  is mostly used for fanfares and various signals. When it is played by veteran musicians, it becomes a very expressive instrument and it is widely used at different kind of ceremonies. In present Karnay and surnay are used across whole Uzbekistan as a herald of celebrations and entertainment, accompanying folk and circus shows, horse races and other sport games.

At the end of the XIX century articles of the Rishtan potters were exported to Russia, where they were exhibited and where they made for popular sales items. In 1900 they were successfully presented at the World exhibition in Paris. Ceramics from Rishtan were compared to the best European majolica, on par with works by European masters.

Rishtan masterpieces of that era are incorporated into museum collections not only in Uzbekistan where they eponymous authors are specified through the typological belonging to their area of origin, entirely different from Gijduvan, Urgut, Andijan, Denau or Tashkent ceramics.

Researchers unanimously acknowledge the supreme role of Rishtan in the art of ceramics in the XIX - early XX centuries. The small town between Kokand and Ferghana is considered to be "the cradle of the ceramic art of the entire Ferghana valley", once influencing all ceramic centers of the region.

Ceramics were indispensable items and in some ways constituted the key to survival. In an extreme continental climate with very hot summers and dry air, ceramics made water and food storage possible. A classic vessel was the hum, the wide mothed water jug, whose every feature is intended to keep the precious liquid fresh and cool. Narrow spout-less shoulder jugs were used to get water from the well. In former times, houshold items such as small jugs, namely: obdasts, kuzacha, oftoba for drinking water, large and small vessels for dairy products were made in a multitude of shapes, with two or four handles, such as the dugusha, koshkulok, chorkulok, and hurma.

At the end of the XIX century after the opening in 1889 of the Tashkent to Ferghana railroad and the emergence of mass-produced imported Russian china ware, demand for Rishtan ceramics drastically decreased.

Bukhara, Samarkand followed by Tashkent became the production sites of ceramics factories in Turkestan. The laboriously handcrafted and thus more expensive bowls, serving plates, milk and water jugs from Rishtan were no longer able to compete on the market. Many masters turned to other sources of income or abandoned their skills altogether. It is immediately notable how in the 1950s-1960s, the few remaining potters in Rishtan complied with the trend of the time, mainly brightly enrobed, polychromatic articles made in the line of Tashkent and Gijduvan ceramics, a far cry from the classic Rishtan school. A revival of the best tradition of Rishtan set in only relatively recently.

Everywhere in Uhum you can find a type of constructional material which is pretty much common for this area. Almost all mountains have it. That raw material, water availability, and abundance of vegetation and animals were the reason of human living in here.  Ancient hunters left special pictures - petroglyphs for further generation. You can see them almost in every piece of Nurutau Mountains. The nature and surrounding environment gave a man a very comfortable material – a stone. Earlier it was used as labor tool, and sometimes as canvas. After that stone was used during the constructions of the houses. The way the houses are build and their architecture style are especially interesting.  On the hillside residential stone houses with clay-timbered ceilings, located at different heights, and surrounded with little stone walls. Local clay is used as a fluid.

Pretty much developed system of paths and little roads of the saes should be highlighted. As local population says they were built and constructed long time ago. AT the old times there were no high technology and all the work was done manually. Nowadays when building of highways is needed then mountains slopes are just being broken. AT those times, on the contrary,   people put flat stones in one line all together so that the road would be sort of straight. But they did not put any cement.  At some points the roads were fixed by woods. The lowest point of these roads was serving as a fence for the gardens at the same time. The curb was filled in with dry tree branches, and so it prevented the animals’ encroachment to the fields.

Starting from the downside of the Uhum village you can see gardens, yards with the flat roof houses. Many inhabitants of the village do have lands. The road is clean and comfortable to go through. All the way to the deep canyon you can see the mulberries. And right at the sai, its neighbor lawns there are small yards for future buildings. You can find really old walnuts in there. Soon at the top the mountain cliff “Parandos” can be observed. The topography of these mountains is a very disjointed and complicated, which adds a special beauty, diversity and uniqueness to it.