Khan-Tengri peak, 7010m

Last updated: 15. 03. 2010

The beautiful pyramid of Khan Tengri is without doubt the Jewel of the Tien Shan. It is the second highest mountain in this most northerly and remote of the great Asian mountain ranges. Among the local people, the white peaks are known as 'The Mountains of Heaven'.
Khan Tengri was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed - all by Soviet teams.
We offer a classical route - from the south, gaining the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. This approach is most popular among climbers. Depending upon the conditions prevailing at the time, it is likely that 3 or 4 camps will be used to climb Khan Tengri.

Duration – 21 days
Countries –Kyrgyzstan
Time – July – August

Base Camp “South Inylchek”

PROGRAM

Day 1  Arrival in Bishkek, transfer to hotel, accommodation at hotel.

Day 2. Transfer Bishkek - Karkara (460 km), accommodation at the Camp.

Day 3. Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek” (4000m).

Day 4-16. Acclimatization and Ascension.

Day 17. Reserve day (in case of bad weather).

Day 18. Reserve day (in case of bad weather).

Day 19. Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel.

Day 20. Day in Bishkek.

Day 21. Transfer to the Airport, departure home.

For ascending Khan-Tengri Peak it is better for you to have following equipment:Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set; Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes; Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots; High-altitude foodstuff.

For ascending Khan-Tengri Peak it is better for you to have following equipment:Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set; Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes; Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots; High-altitude foodstuff.

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