Lenin Peak 7134 m

Last updated: 18. 06. 2010

Lenin Peak (7134m) is situated in the middle of Transalai ridge on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan.
The first ascension to Lenin Peak was made on September, 25th, 1928 by German climbers E. Allwein, E. Schneider and K. Wien, participants of complex expedition of Academy of sciences of the USSR.
The climate of Lenin peak is characterised by sharp contrasts. In the bottom part it is moderated, and in a high-mountainous zone becomes close to polar type. The summer – short, cool and even cold, lasts from June till August.
Lenin peak is one of the most accessible among exceeding 7000m summits. Character of the ascension along classical route (through Razdelnaya Peak) does not demand application of high techniques of mountaineering, and weather conditions is mostly nice. But it is necessary to remember that this top exceeds 7000ì, and it demand from climbers good physical preparation, acclimatization and strong will.

Duration – 21(18) days
Countries – Kyrgyzstan (Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan)
Time – July – August

RECOMMENDED PROGRAM

Day 1. Arrival:

  • to Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan). Flight to Osh city. Transfer to «Taldyk» yurt camp (140km; 3 hours; 2250m).
  • to Tashkent (Uzbekistan). Transfer through Kamchik pass (2267m) and Ferghana valle to Osh city (Kyrgyzstan) and further through Chigirchik pass (2406m) to «Taldyk» yurt camp (550km; 11 hours; 2250m).

Day 2. Transfer through Taldyk pass (3615m) to Alay valley to Lenin Peak’s
place. Accommodation in Base Camp (3600m).

Day 3. Acquaintance with area of the camp, preparation day for ascent.

Days 4-8. Period of Acclimatization.

Day 9. Rest day.

Day 10. Rest day.

Days 11-16. Period of ascension.

Day 17. Reserve day (in case of bad weather).

Day 18. Reserve day (in case of bad weather).

Day 19. Transfer from Base Camp (3600m) to Osh city (240km, 8 hours).

Day 20. From Osh:

  • flight to Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan), hotel.
  • transfer to Tashkent (Uzbekistan, 410km, 8 hours), hotel.

Day 21. Departure home from Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan)/Tashkent (Uzbekistan).

For ascending Lenin Peak it is recommended to have following equipment:
high-altitude tent, a rug, sleeping-bag (-10C – - 20C), rucksack (in size 60-100 liters), high-altitude mountain plastic shoes, tracking shoes, high-altitude mountain sun glasses (it is better to have reserve ones), sunscreen (not less than 25 factors), lipcare stick, private high-altitude first-aid set, telescopic ski sticks, ice-axe, crampons, helmet, rope (9-10 mm, 200-30 m), safety system, carabines (3-5), clip for rope, ice- bores (2), safety halyard (4-5 mm, 2-3 m), head flash-light, powder-puff, warm breeches, warm mittens, gloves, hat, face mask, cap, weatherproof clothing, woolen socks (2-3 pairs), warm sweater or jacket.

Cost of the program for 2010 year:

Route Days Period Cost for 1 person
Tashkent – Tashkent 21 1-21 days € 690
Bishkek – Bishkek 21 1-21 days € 690
Osh – Osh 18 2-19 days € 510

Cost includes:

  • All the necessary documents and formalities;
  • Meetings and seeing-offs in airports;
  • Flight from Bishkek to Osh;
  • All transfers according the program;
  • Accommodation in yurt camp «Taldyk» (full board) or hotels 2* with breakfast;
  • Meals in yurt camp «Taldyk» (2250m);
  • Services in Base Camp (3600m) and Camp 1 (4400m)::
    • Accommodation in double and triple tents;
    • Three time different meal, including vegetarian food;
    • Yurts-mess-rooms in national stile with heating in Base Camp (3600m) and Camp 1 (4400m) for rest, meals and amusement (music, viewing photos on PC an other);
    • Storage in BC (3600m) and Camp 1 (4400m);
    • Sauna (steam room) in BC
    • Toilet;
    • Medical services (professional doctor);
    • Electricity (220V, 50Hz);
    • Guide-consultant services;
    • Registration in rescue team;

Cost does not include:

  • Kyrgyzstan visa (Uzbekistan visa (2 entries), Kyrgyzstan visa);
  • Services of Mountain guide and porters during the ascension;
  • Rent of mountaineering equipment and tents for ascending;
  • Gas/petrol;
  • Altitude food;
  • Insurance.
Price-list for services in BC (3600m) and Camp 1 (4400m) in 2010
Services in BC (3600m) and Camp 1 (4400m) Cost
BC (3600m) Camp 1 (4400m)
Additional day with three-times meal 30€
Additional meal

(for 1 person)

Breakfast 8€ 10€
Lunch 8€ 10€
Dinner 8€ 10€
Mountain guide for program (up to 4 clients) 600-800€
Mountain porter

(per1kg)

BC (3600m) – C1 (4400m) 2€
C1 (4400m) – C2 (5300m) 6€
C2 (5300m) – C3 (6100m) 12€
C3 (6100m)+ 20€
Gas canister (230ml) 7€
Refueling of gas canister (230ml) 2€
Mountain tents rent (per 1 tent/day) 5€
Radio rent (for 1 day/pair) 4€
Equipment rent(ice-axe, crampons, rope, torch and other) According BC price-list
Bar, tea, disco, guitar According BC price-list
Satellite phone, Internet/e-mail According BC price-list
Recording of photo and video from flesh card to digital storages, preservation of information in PC 4€
Transfer from BC (3600m) to Osh city 40€
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