Somoni (Communism) & E. Korjenevskaya peaks

Somoni (Communism) Peak (7495 m) is the highest summit in Pamir and ex-USSR. It is situated in territory of modern Tajikistan, where the mountain ridges of Academy of Science and Peter the First merge. The first ascension has been made by Evgeniy Abalakov from Bivachniy glacier’s side in 1933 as a part of Tajik-Pamir expedition of Academy of Science of USSR.
On the west slopes  at 6000 m over sea level located the unique Pamir firn plateau, which borders fall down as kilometer high walls to Fortambek and Valter glaciers on the North and Belyaev glacier on the South.
Classic ascension routes lead through the firn plateau from Fortambek glacier along Burevestnik edge, and from Valter glacier, along Borodkin edge.

E. Korjenevskaya Peak (7105 m) is one of 4 over-7000 meters summits in ex-USSR. It is located in territory of modern Tajikistan, in northern part of Academy of Science ridge, 13 km from Somoni (Communism) Peak.
The top has been explored in 1910 by Russian geographer N. L. Korzhenevskiy and was named in sake of his wife Eugenia.
The first ascension to the summit has been made along northern edge from Korzhenevskiy glacier on 22nd August of 1953 by expedition of Department of Sports of Association of Trade Unions under the command of A. Ugarov.
The most safe and least difficult route of ascension begins from Moskvin glacier and passes along the Southern edge (V. Tsetlin's route, 1966).

Base Camp located at 4200 m where Valter and Moskvin glaciers merge is the optimum starting point for climbing Somoni (Communism)(7495 m) and E. Korjenevskaya (7015 m) peaks.

Duration – 29 days
Countries – Tajikistan
Time – July – August

PROGRAM

(full package)

Day 1 Arrival to Dushanbe, meeting in the airport, accommodation in 2* hotel.

Day 2 Transfer to the airport, flight (plane) from Dushanbe to mountain village     Djirgital, flight (helicopter) from Djirgital to Base Camp on Moskvin Glade.

Days 3-27 Acclimatization & Ascensions.

Day 28 Flight (helicopter) from Base Camp to mountain village Djirgital, flight          (plane) from Djirgital to Dushanbe, transfer to hotel.

Day 29 Transfer to the airport, departure from Dushanbe.

On arrival:		July of 2010
Dushanbe - Djirgital	Plane (AN-28)	22 July	25 July	29 August	01 August
Djirgital – Base Camp	Helicopter (MI-8 MTV)	22 July	25 July	29 August	01 August

On departure:		August of 2010
Base Camp - Djirgital	Helicopter (MI-8 MTV)	17 August	20 August	26 August	27 August
Djirgital – Dushanbe	Plane (AN-28)	17 August	20 August	26 August	27 August

In case of bad weather:

• changes are possible in this schedule;
• auto transfer instead of flight is possible on route Dushanbe – Djirgital or back;
• during forced waiting in Djirgital accommodation and meals will be provided for free.

It is necessary to have following equipment for ascension:

High-altitude tent, a rug, sleeping-bag (-10C  – - 20C), rucksack (60-100 liters), high-altitude mountain plastic shoes, tracking shoes, mountain sunglasses (it is better to have reserve ones), sunscreen (not less than 25 factor), lip care stick, private high-altitude first-aid set, telescopic ski sticks, ice-axe, crampons, helmet, rope (9-10 mm, 200-30 m), safety system, carabines (3-5), clip for rope, ice-bores (2), safety halyard (4-5 mm, 2-3 m), head flash-light, powder-puff, warm breeches, warm mittens, gloves, hat, face mask, cap, weatherproof clothing, woolen socks (2-3 pairs), warm sweater or jacket.

Program cost for 2010:

(full package) 1750 €

For independent groups, sport clubs, sport federations and tour agencies discounts / commission will be provided!

Cost includes:

• Meetings and seeing-offs in airports;
• Flights Dushanbe – Djirgital - BC «Moskvin’s Glade» - Djirgital- Dushanbe with 30 kg luggage limit (3€/kg for overload);
• Accommodation in Dushanbe for 2 nights in 2* hotel in double rooms (additional payment for single supplement 25€ per person)
• Three-times meal in BC;
• Accommodation in tents in BC;
• Shower, toilet, storage;
• Using base camp’s infrastructure (water, toilet, electricity, medical tent);
• Medical services.

Cost does not include:

• Tajikistan Letter of Invitation;
• Tajikistan Visa;
• Services of  Mountain guide and porters during the ascension;
• Gas/petrol;
• Altitude food;
• Satellite and radio;
• Insurance.

For taking part in expedition insurance not lesser that 20.000$ needed!

Price-list for additional services in 2010:
Services in BC «Moskvin’s Glade» (4200m)		Cost
Additional meal (for 1 person)	Breakfast	6.5€
	Lunch	12€
	Dinner	12€
Mountain guide (per day)		48€
Mountain porter (per1kg)	BC (4200m) – C1 (5300m)	8€
	C1 (5300m) – C2 (5800m)	12€
	C2 (5800m) – C3 (6300m)	20€
	C3 (6300m)+	28€
Gas canister (230ml) (1.5€ discount for returning of used canister)		8€
Refueling of gas canister (230ml)		3€
Mountain tents rent (per 1 tent/night)		8€
Radio rent (for 1 day/pair)		5€
Satellite phone, Internet/e-mail		According BC price-list

PROGRAM

(small package)

Day 1 Arrival to Dushanbe, meeting in the airport, accommodation in private         sector.

Day 2 Transfer to the mountain village Djirgital (285 km, 8-10 hours),   accommodation in rooms.

Day 3 Fight (helicopter) from Djirgital to Base Camp on Moskvin Glade.

Days 4-27 Acclimatization & Ascensions.

Day 28 Flight (helicopter) from Base Camp to mountain village Djirgital, transfer     (auto) from Djirgital to Dushanbe, accommodation in rooms.

Day 29 Transfer to the airport, departure from Dushanbe.

On arrival:		July of 2010
Dushanbe - Djirgital	Plane (AN-28)
Djirgital – Base Camp	Helicopter (MI-8 MTV)

On departure:		August of 2010
Base Camp - Djirgital	Helicopter (MI-8 MTV)
Djirgital – Dushanbe	Plane (AN-28)

In case of bad weather:

• changes are possible in this schedule;

It is recommended to have following equipment for ascension:

High-altitude tent, a rug, sleeping-bag (-10C  – - 20C), rucksack (60-100 liters), high-altitude mountain plastic shoes, tracking shoes, mountain sunglasses (it is better to have reserve ones), sunscreen (not less than 25 factor), lip care stick, private high-altitude first-aid set, telescopic ski sticks, ice-axe, crampons, helmet, rope (9-10 mm, 200-30 m), safety system, carabines (3-5), clip for rope, ice-bores (2), safety halyard (4-5 mm, 2-3 m), head flash-light, powder-puff, warm breeches, warm mittens, gloves, hat, face mask, cap, weatherproof clothing, woolen socks (2-3 pairs), warm sweater or jacket.

Program cost for 2010:

(small package) 1000€

For independent groups, sport clubs, sport federations and tour agencies discounts / commission will be provided!

Cost includes:

• Meetings and seeing-offs in airports;
• Transfer Dushanbe – Jirgital – Dushanbe;
• Helicopter flight Jirgital – BC «Moskvina Glade» - Dushanbe with 30kg luggage limit (3€/kg for overload);
• Accommodation in Dushanbe for 2 nights in private house;
• Using infrastructure of BC (toilet, water, place for tent, electricity);

Cost does not include:

• Tajikistan Letter of Invitation;
• Tajikistan Visa;
• Services of  Mountain guide and porters during the ascension;
• Gas/petrol;
• Altitude food;
• Satellite and radio;
• Insurance.

For taking part in expedition insurance not lesser that 20.000$ needed!

Price-list for additional services in 2010:
Services in BC «Moskvin’s Glade» (4200m)		Cost
Additional meal (for 1 person)	Breakfast	6.5€
	Lunch	12€
	Dinner	12€
Mountain guide (per day)		48€
Mountain porter (per1kg)	BC (4200m) – C1 (5300m)	8€
	C1 (5300m) – C2 (5800m)	12€
	C2 (5800m) – C3 (6300m)	20€
	C3 (6300m)+	28€
Gas canister (230ml) (1.5€ discount for returning of used canister)		8€
Refueling of gas canister (230ml)		3€
Mountain tents rent (per 1 tent/night)		8€
Radio rent (for 1 day/pair)		5€
Satellite phone, Internet/e-mail		According BC price-list